Technical Help
& Education
Glossary Of Terms
Speakers Main Page
How Speakers Work
Choosing Speakers
What's A Woofer?
What's A Midrange?
What's A Tweeter?
Other Speaker Types
More Speaker Types
What's A Capacitor?
Installing A Capacitor
What's A Crossover?
What's An Equalizer?
Speaker Enclosures
Theile/Small Param.
About Power Amps
Installing An Amp
Installation Tips
Power Ratings
Installing/Replacing
Head Units/Receivers
Installing Neon/LED
Eliminating Noise
Use The Right Tools
Manufacturer's Links
Home Stereo
Tech Information
FAQ
Glossary
Home Speakers

Personal Stereo
& Electronics
Laptop Computers
Cell Phones & PDAs
Portable TV & Video
Electronic Readers
MP3/Music Players
CD Players/Booms
Earphones/Buds
Digital Cameras
Video Cameras
Personal GPS
Bluetooth
Calculators
Accessories

Marine Stereo &
Electronics
Stereo Amplifiers
Stereo Speakers
Stereo Woofers
Woofer Tubes
Enclosed Speakers
Wakeboard Speakers
CD/Mp3 Receivers
TVS & Video
VHF Radios
GPS Navigation
Fish Finders
Depth Finders
Chart Plotters
Accessories

Home Stereo
& Electronics
Flat Screen & HD TVs
Surround Sound
Home Theater
DVD Players/Tivo
DVD Recorders
Blu-Ray Devices
Amplifiers/Tuners
Speaker Systems
Subwoofer Drivers
Midrange Drivers
Tweeter Drivers
Powered Subwoofers
Outdoor Speakers
Stereo Accessories
Digital Photo Frames
Video Game Systems
Game Accessories
Video Games
Home Security/Alarms

Computers &
Related Products
Desktops & Laptops
Add-Ons/Peripherals
Computer Monitors
Computer Software
Computer Games
Printers & Scanners
Ink/Specialty Papers
Parts & Components
Computer Supplies
Security/Tech Support

Car Stereo &
Electronics
Amplifiers
Subwoofers
Full-Range Speakers
Midrange Speakers
Tweeters
Power Capacitors
Empty Enclosures
Loaded Enclosures
CD/Mp3 Receivers
CD Changers
Bass Packages
Car TV & Video
Satellite Radio
Bluetooth Wireless
GPS Navigation
Neon/LED Lighting
Radar Detectors
Chrome Mufflers
Car Alarms/Security
AUTO PARTS STORE
Auto Wiring &
Accessories
Air Horns
Power Antennas
Antenna Boosters
A/V Controllers
Bass Blockers
Crossovers
Dynamat
Equalizers
Fans (Cooling)
FM Modulators
Interfaces
Line Converters
Noise Filters
Power Inverters
Power Supplies
RCA Cables
RCA Splitters
Remote Controls
Signal Boosters
Vibration Control
Speaker Grills
Wiring Kits

Sponsors

The Electronics
Superstore

WM Publishing

Barbara The Novel

Cute The Novel

Season's
Readings Essays

MetroDirect

The Amp Depot

Powercaps

Logos & Banners

Bleep Them

R. LeBeaux

Stereo Tech
Info. Center

 

Installing Or Replacing A Car Stereo Receiver
(also known as a "head unit")
(General considerations applying to most installations)

MOST IMPORTANT!! Receivers can be very different! Read the instructions that came with your unit. They will usually identify the wires and their connections, as well as contain special instructions. This information may be on one of the unit covers as well. The unit wiring colors will differ from the car's own wiring scheme.

Here is a list of some common car wiring schemes by manufacturer.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: wire strippers, pliers, screwdrivers, wire crimpers and wire nuts, 12-volt light tester* or, preferably, a Volt-OhmMeter, and electrical tape. (*Newer cars have extensive internal electronics that might be damaged if a light tester is used.) See a complete suggested list here

BE VERY, VERY, CAREFUL! The slightest slip may short circuit connections in the underdash area that is often densely packed with electrical devices. Such damage could be expensive.

1) Remove the old receiver. Notice that it has a ground wire, a 12-volt electrical power wire, and four or eight speaker wires. It may also have Connections for line inputs and outputs for other devices like a CD changer, and/or power amplifier. Consulting the instructions of schematic, note carefully the identity of each wire on a small piece of paper, which can then be taped to the appropriate wire. The main wires should easily unplug from the back of the old stereo. Almost every receiver will have it's own peculiar plug, necessitating the removal of the old plug, and the connection of all the wires to the new plug on the back of the unit.

Do not connect the main power cable, until all other connections are made!

2) Connect the positive [+] wire from each speaker to the positive terminal or wire end, on the back of the unit. If connecting wire to wire, be sure to strip each end of insulation leaving about 3/8ths inch of exposed conductor on each end. Twist them together, and then screw a wire nut over the connection making sure that no metal in the wire is exposed. Tape over with electrical tape.

3) Connect the negative wire [-] from each speaker to the negative connection on the back of the unit. Follow the procedure outlined above.

4) Connect the ground wire of the stereo to a screw or bolt near where the radio is mounted in the dash. Make sure the wire is attached to metal frame part with a known good electrical connection to the battery negative. Do not attach to plastic or fiberglass parts.

5) With the ignition off completely, pull the 12-volt constant voltage wire from the cigarette lighter. Use the VOM* or test light to be certain you are selecting the right wire; the light will go on if you have tapped into the 12-volt constant.

6) Connect the constant voltage lead from the receiver to the 12-volt constant. Connecting the constant lead ensures that the stereo's built-in clock and memory features always have power.

7) Find the ignition source. Turn on the ignition and select the wire from under the dash. (An auto-repair manual such as "Chilton's" can help you identify the appropriate wire.)

8) Pierce the wire with the VOM or light tester* probe. The light will go on if you have the correct wire. To assure the accuracy of your selection, turn on the headlights; the tester should continue to shine with the same intensity.

9) Connect the "turn on lead" from the radio to the ignition source.

10) Look for more electrical leads coming from the receiver. These leads make power available when the unit is on and can be used to operate a power antenna and/or amplifier. If you don't have these items, cut off any exposed wire end part and wrap the leads with black electrical tape so that they do not touch a metal surface and short out.

11) Connect the line in and line out RCA stereo cables to the appropriate devices, Amplifier and CD player, usually.

12) The remaining plug is for the antenna. Connect it to the car's antenna line.

13) Find the metal brace that comes with some units. Mount the brace to the back of the stereo and to a secure surface under the dashboard. Attach the faceplate to the dashboard. Put the knobs, if any, on the appropriate shafts of the unit.

14) If there is only one wire coming from the speakers, the speakers are grounded at the car chassis. In this case, you may need to install new speaker wiring, if your receiver requires electrical isolation of each speaker.